Marcello Mastroianni

Italy had Marcello Mastroianni, and there was not a more magnetic star in the world in the 1960s. In Fellini’s 8½, it’s clear whom Mastroianni modeled his character after. “He dressed as Federico,” the film’s assistant costume designer Orietta Nasalli Rocca says of the Italian star. Any uncertainty felt by Mastroianni’s character (a film director undergoing a creative breakdown) is hidden beneath a sharp, sure figura—a confident black suit, white shirt, and black tie, all from Brioni. The black wraparound shades—which Mastroianni dons sparingly—are his crowning touch.

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The Brioni/Continental style suits have an even slimmer silhouette to their American counter parts, slanting pockets, without patterns or pins, double cuffs, looser collar and usually comes in cool colors (Brussels blues and Geneva greys), and the general aloofness that comes with riding scooters by 800 year old fountains.